Official Journal
of The Glacier Racers The Fairfield Horseshoe
4th July 2009 A nine hour slog and no view of Helvelyn
The inaugural outing of the Glacier Racers,
which took place on 4th July 2009, started in a mood of cheerful optimism
and a range of daft headgear. Little did I realise, as I fed the requisite
contents of a medium sized bag of gold into the pay-and-display meter for
our allotted nine hour tenure of the selected parking spot, that I would
need every last one of the
hours allowed in order to complete our intended route and return to the
car. And to be honest, only Brian made it back in the time, having
“sprinted” the last mile. (His GR Credentials are being examined by the
committee.) Neither, looking at the broken cloud and abundant sunshine,
did I appreciate, at the time, just how wet I was going to be!
1
As has already been intimated, this epic journey, which
sparked several quotes and references from Frodo and Sam's efforts, began
in the main car park in Ambleside. We set off equipped with map, compass,
waterproofs and enough food for a small army; most of which had been
carefully selected by Roger for its tendency towards the unhealthy side of
a bad diet.
As we crossed the bridge to leave the car park and the last loo we would
see for some time, Roger started on the Liquorice Allsorts. The rest of
the party declined his kind offer and Brian or Graham, can't remember
which, did offer the suggestion that perhaps hard boiled eggs might be
more appropriate but Roger is made of sterner stuff.
Despite plenty of alternative suggestions with regard to the route, we
were soon marching purposefully past Nook End Farm, if a little slower
than at the foot of the lane. As we crossed Low Sweden Bridge we emerged
onto
the open fell and began the real work. This
part of the walk was where a serious and unrelenting amount of “up” was
needed and even at our pace, it was hard work. With frequent stops to
admire the views we staggered to a point on the accent of Low Pike where
the path forked. Roger, was convinced that the path to the right would
obviate the need to climb the steep rise in front of him but the map said
otherwise. So more “up” was applied.
Up to this point we had climbed in summer sunshine with a slight, but very
welcome, following breeze. It was warm work and, despite Sue's parting
words of wisdom, Brian had already removed his protective headgear long
before Low Pike. He would spend Sunday resembling a very happy Belisha
Beacon.
The climb to Low Pike included one of those points found in all good Lake
District walks where it is necessary to put your right knee in your right
ear in order to gain the required foothold. Brian led the way and gained
the high ground. Roger decided that the weight of his provisions would be
too much of a burden if strapped to his back and chucked his rucksack up
ahead. I wasn't quite quick enough in converting my phone to video camera
mode or you would all have been in
#1 Ambleside and Lake
Windermere
#2 Look
Sue, look, look, only a mile into the walk and Brian has already removed
his hat!
#3 Towards
Rydal Water
#4 Looking
back at Ambleside
for a treat watching Roger trying to figure which foot needed to
go where whilst complaining that he needed longer legs because the
mountain wasn't designed properly.
Roger made it up and it was then Graham's turn to have a go. Being of a mountain
climbing persuasion, he knew what needed to be done and instantly recognised
that his joints wouldn't do that any more. He wandered off to find an easier
route. As I tried out a few combinations of foot and hand holds the call came
from Graham that there was an easier route but I ignored him. I've seen some of
his easier routes when we did Jack's Rake. They usually involve standing on the
edge of a sheer drop whilst holding on to something with your eyelashes. I found
something to haul myself up with on the safe route. I did, however, have to roll
my trousers up above the knee in order to provide the necessary freedom of
movement. I mention this to explain my strange appearance in subsequent
photographs.
Knowing that we would be the slowest thing on the mountain, unless we did
actually find a glacier, we had set off as early as possible. Firstly to
ensure that we could get around in
daylight and secondly to make sure that we had somewhere to park.
As we set off for High Pike the first of many parties began to overtake
us, including two little grey haired ladies who swept past at about twice
our pace. I declared that a brief stop for sustenance was required at
about half way between Low and High Pike as we were still climbing at a
rate and I needed to refuel.
When we set off again, Roger, fuelled with
#6 Graham
takes a snort of something whilst Brian gazes at the view. High Pike
and our lunch spot now behind us.
#7 Roger and Clive make good time towards Dove Crag
#5 Brian and Graham looked at Rydal Water and decided that base jumping
was not for them.
Liquorice Allsorts, stormed ahead but then began to get paranoid
because the rest of us kept staggering to a halt and would then take the
opportunity to have a good chat without him. Roger, having gained greater
altitude was loath to sacrifice this but was feeling neglected and
needed reassurance that we were technically still walking with him, even
if he couldn't join in the banter.
Young Brian then succumbed to a fit of madness and challenged himself to reach
High Pike in fifteen minutes. Well he certainly couldn't challenge any of the
rest of us. We waved as he headed off but when we reached the summit some twenty
five minutes later he was nowhere to be seen. He had taken a different path and
had taken up residence in a slight hollow on the way to Dove Crag. This
transpired to be our lunch stop, it now being past mid-day.
Roger unloaded the full contents of his cavernous rucksack and set about its
bounty with some enthusiasm. The contents included the largest flask of coffee
that any of us had ever seen but apparently this was unlikely to provide for his
caffeine needs as he was already planning to visit the Rydal Hall tea rooms on
the return leg of the journey.
#8 Looking
back from Dove Crag before the clouds sat on us
As we sat enjoying our lunch there was a distinct sense of something creeping up
on us from the South. Not all the food was scoffed at this stop and, as we eased
ourselves back to our feet and looked about us, it became quite clear that the
next stop for grub would probably involve trying to eat it before it became so
sodden that it fell apart. Still, there were always the Liquorice Allsorts.
Whilst the path before us was by no means level, it was as nothing compared to
what we had just done and so we positively sauntered to Dove Crag.
2 Dove Crag was a bit of a non-event but at least we could see where we were
going.
#9 Brian gets his last chance for some time to point at things in the
distance
By the time we left it we had all opted for full water proofs,
that is apart from Young Brian who had to be restrained from stripping to the
waist, complaining that he was too hot! The weather was, to say the least,
changeable and Roger parried every move that it made with an appropriate adjustment of has apparel.
Prompting Graham to observe that Roger's waterproof trousers were up and down
like a bride's nightie! As I recall, there was a
bit of a scramble to reach Hart Crag and, having reached this
milestone, Roger announced that we should mark this auspicious occasion in
the usual manner and promptly started ferreting about in this
multitudinous layers of apparel. Now, I thought that this meant that he was
going to have a wee and so made all speed to get up wind of him.
However, I was yelled
#11
Deepdale
#10 Hart Crag
at to come back for the commemorative photograph. I was just
explaining this misunderstanding to the rest of the party as Roger took
the picture, which is why the other two are laughing their heads off.
The path from Hart Crag was difficult to find but fortunately some people coming
in the opposite direction enabled us to pick up the trail again. Then, as we
stood in the gloom, being periodically granted a view down into Deepdale as the
clouds parted, a seasoned looking fell walker (Looked like Wild Bill Hickock in
an oilskin cape) approached from the way that we were heading and imparted his
words of wisdom; which almost got us lost.
One thing he did say was that the archaeologists were very fond of crawling all
over the sheer rock structure that we could see. Graham, being one to climb such
things in his youth, had a brief conversation with the man. I believe that we
were looking at The Step and Link Cove. His parting words were something along
the lines of approaching Fairfield from six o'clock and leaving it at nine.
Trouble is, he didn't know where we were going. According to him we were about
to climb Stubby Crag but I never have found that on a map as yet.
We stumbled through the mist and at Rydal Head and encountered a fellow lost soul who
enquired if he was still on the horseshoe. We gave him the benefit of our
extensive knowledge and as far as we know he is still up there. I took this
opportunity to find a comfortable rock to sit on and had something else to
eat. Roger changed his trousers yet
#12 The
view into the valley of Rydal Beck and the view of the photographer with
Hart Crag in the background
again and may, by now, have run out of Liquorice Allsorts. Every
now and then the murk would lift and we were treated to a glimpse down
into the valley, with the two arms of the horseshoe bounding the view of Ambleside
in the distance.
Fed and watered, we headed for Fairfield.
#13 Graham
and Brian enjoy the view and Roger tries to see out from under his hat!
3 Another non-event. The cloud was really thick now and apart from Brian, who was
still strutting his stuff in just a shirt, the rest of us felt that a bit of
sunshine wouldn't go amiss. Brian had a few theories on what we should be able
to see, including something called a Dollywagon and of course Helvelyn. However,
since we were having trouble seeing Fairfield when we were actually standing on
it this was all a bit academic. Following our previously successful strategy of
walking in the opposite direction to people who appeared out of the mist we
headed off the summit of Fairfield in a direction that seemed to match the
instructions of the oilskin clad mountain man that we had previously
encountered. Graham's compass said we were heading west and a quick glance at the
map showed that the path from Fairfield went in that direction.
Then the clouds parted. Ooops!
The view didn't match what we should have been looking at. So we unfolded the
map and looked at it properly. We had set off towards Grisdale Hause instead of
south down the western leg of the horseshoe. Now that the clouds had
lifted we could see the cairns on the ridge that we wanted off to our
left. Time to go “off piste” and indulge in a little sheep worrying.
Walking across the slope was a little awkward but to be honest the sheep
took not
Rydal Head
Hart Crag
Dove Crag
#14 Rydal Head, Hart Crag and Dove Crag from Great Rigg-ish
a blind bit of notice. We
regained the path half way between Fairfield and Great Rigg without further
drama. Still, we had gained a nice view of Grisedale Tarn in the process.
4 Somewhere about Great Rigg or Stone Cove, Roger started fantasising about
coffee at Rydal House. Probably withdrawal symptoms due to a lack of liquorice.
The walk along the ridge seemed absolutely endless. We had now been walking for
a good six hours and Roger confided that he wouldn't mind if it ended soon.
I believe that it was before Heron Pike that we encountered a
bloke, who we had already
#15 If I had to put money on it I would say that this was a view of Heron
Pike with Ambleside and Lake Windermere in the background.
#16 We
were all relieved that Roger had kept his trousers on for this one whilst
Graham gives us lessons on how to pose on a conquered rock!
encountered once, only this time he was heading at great speed in
the opposite direction. His wife had put her phone down on a rock at their
lunch stop and apparently left it there. When we encountered said wife a
little later we discovered that hubby had set off like a greyhound to find
the phone claiming that it would be good training. We glacier racers were
obviously having some difficulty with that concept on two counts. A)
Phones are not expensive enough to warant walking up the same hill twice and B) We couldn't imagine what he
could possibly be training for! Olympic hide-n-seek?
Anyway, the pair of them thundered past again before we made Low
Pike; the errant phone now firmly in
their possession.
It started to rain steadily between Lord Crag and Low Pike and I became aware
that my so called “waterproof” was making claims that it did not deliver.
5There must be eleventy million steps from Low Pike to Rydal Hall, which was
closed or closing by the time we reached it, so all chance of a nice cuppa had
vanished. When we reached the tarmac at Rydal, Brian demonstrated an impressive
turn of speed as he undertook to cover the last mile to the car before the
ticket ran out. Being wet and knackered was one thing but wet knackered and
clamped would have been all together too much to bear. I think Brian may have
made it within a minute or so but there was not a warden in sight, so he didn't
have to kill anyone.
Rain and the good folk of Ambleside not withstanding, Brian could not be
prevented from going berserk in the car park. We think he was just showing off
because he was the only one of us who had something dry to change in to.
#17 Grasmere viewed down Greenhead Gill
#18
Looking back: Hart Crag in the middle of the horizon with Dove Crag to the
right and Rydal Head and Fairfield to the left.
Filled, as we were, with our sense of achievement this did not seem to
compensate for the fact that apart from Smug Brian we had to sit, wringing wet,
in the car and drive home. As we trundled down the M6 Brian asked what we were
each going to do when we reached our respective homes. A hot bath seemed to
figure strongly but we had to curtail the discussions because Graham was
beginning to fantasise about bubbles.
Our sense of achievement took a further knock the next day when Roger discovered
on the internet that the course we had followed was actually a fell race and
that the winning time this year was about one hour and sixteen minutes! Also,
that they run in the opposite direction and had thus gone up the eleventy
million steps from Rydal to Low Pike on the western leg of the loop. They would
obviously make quite a saving on the car park.